Jai Badri Vishal ki!
Day 9: Pipalkoti --- Garud Ganga –- Vriddha Badri --- Joshimath --- Hanumanchatti --- Ekadashi gufa --- Badrinath (Aarti in evening, night halt).
Pipalkoti
Pipalkoti is a small and scenic town
in Chamoli district, Uttarakhand (17kms after Chamoli on NH58). It is nestled
amidst lush green mountains and terraced fields. The light mists gradually lifted and the valley, emerging from twilight shadows awakened to yet another day. The light morning clouds overhead grew brighter and brighter, till at last the sun shone out in its full glory, and the valley lay bathed in golden light. The fresh morning breeze blew round the face, and every fresh puff brought a waft of fragrance from the trees. The fresh morning breeze, and the pure mountain air was so cool and refreshing that every breath we drew was a pleasure.
We first went to Garud Ganga, situated at 5 km from Pipalkoti at an elevation of 1372m in the Garud valley. It
is believed that the pebbles found in this river when kept at home will ward
off poisonous snakes and evil energies. Also, pregnant women will have safe
delivery (if these pebbles are kept at home). Nagadosham gets wiped off if one consumes the sacred water of this river.
The river runs through Pakhi village, close to the Garuda temple and then
unites with the Alaknanda River.
Garuda is the vahana of Lord Vishnu. There is Garudopanishad and Garuda Purana dedicated to him. In Bhagavad-Gita, Krishna explaining his omnipresence, said that among the birds, he is the son of Vinata (i.e, Garuda). The Garuda Panchashath and Garuda Dandaka are beautiful compositions of Vedantha Desikar.
Garuda did penance here to atone for sins
committed by killing snakes. There is a temple dedicated to Lakshmi-Narayana
and a separate temple for Garudazhwar closer to the river banks. We did our prayers to Garuda Ganga, drank its waters and collected some pebbles. One can clearly see bubbles in the water. Collected pebbles were kept near the foot of Garudazhwar and the priest did special prayers and aarti to Garuda bhagavan.
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| Garudazhwar |
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| Garuda Ganga |
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| Bubbles in the water |
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| Lakshmi Narayana |
Vriddha Badari
We then went to the Vriddha Badri temple at an altitude of 1380m. It took a steep climb of about 10 minutes through the stairs to reach the temple. This village (Animath) has been selected for organic bio farming. The temple is open throughout the
year. It is situated in the village of Animath that is 7 km from Joshimath, in the direction
of Pipalkoti.
Legend is that when Narada was doing penance, Lord Vishnu appeared in the Vriddha form (old man). The divine craftsmanship of Vishwakarma can be seen in this idol. According to legend, the idol of Badarinath carved by Vishwakarma was worshiped and preserved here. When kali yuga entered, Lord Vishnu chose to remove himself from this place. Later, Adi Shankaracharya found the idol in Narada kund and established it in Badri Vishal shrine. There is a huge Banyan tree at the back of the temple and a Shivaling. We did our prayers and the priest did karpoor aarti for bhagavan. We took His blessings and moved to our next destination which is Joshimath.
Legend is that when Narada was doing penance, Lord Vishnu appeared in the Vriddha form (old man). The divine craftsmanship of Vishwakarma can be seen in this idol. According to legend, the idol of Badarinath carved by Vishwakarma was worshiped and preserved here. When kali yuga entered, Lord Vishnu chose to remove himself from this place. Later, Adi Shankaracharya found the idol in Narada kund and established it in Badri Vishal shrine. There is a huge Banyan tree at the back of the temple and a Shivaling. We did our prayers and the priest did karpoor aarti for bhagavan. We took His blessings and moved to our next destination which is Joshimath.
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| Entrance of temple |
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| Shivling |
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| Banyan tree |
Joshimath (Tiruppiridhi)
In ancient scriptures Joshimath is described as
Kartikeyapura named after Kartikeya, the God of the Katyuri kings. It is located a few kilometers from the confluence of Alakananda and Dauli Ganga (the Vishnu Prayag). On a clear day, Nanda Devi, one of the highest peaks in the Uttarakhand Himalayas, can be seen from Joshimath. Joshimath is located at a distance of 14kms from Helang enroute to Badrinath. Separate temples of Lord Narasimha and Lord Vasudeva exist close to each other. This is one of the 108 divya desam for SriVaishnavaite to visit. This is also the winter home of Lord Badri Vishal. Joshimath is surrounded on three sides by the snow clad Trishul (7250m) in the south, Badri peaks (7100m) in the north-west and Kamet (7750m) in the north.
Bhavishya Kedar
The Bhavishya Kedar temple is at the entrance of Jyotirmath. Similar to Kedareshwar Swayambhu murti, there is hump of a He-Buffalo in conical form, worshipped as Shiva lingam here also. The temple houses an idol of Astabuja Durga on her vyAgravahana, and two conical form shivalingams. It is believed that in the future, the Lord Kedareshwar will be worshipped at this place when the current Kedarnath will become inaccessible for pilgrims.
Jyotirmath
Joshimath / Jyotirmath is the first matha or Peeta (UttarAmnAya matha, or northern monastery) established by Shri Adi Jagadguru Shankaracharya. At the age of 11, Adi Shankaracharya came to Badrikaranya for performing penance. After performing penance for 5 years, he got enlightened under the Amar Kalpavriksha tree. There is a temple dedicated to Lakshmi Narayana. After going further up, one will find Totakacharya cave and Rajarajeshwari temple.
Totakacharya cave and Rajarajeshwari temple
Totakacharya was one of the four principal disciple of Sri Adi Shankaracharya, the Advaita philosopher. His original name was Giri (AnandaGiri). He composed Totakashtakam, in praise of Guru Adi Shankara, Tika on the Mandukya Karika, and SrutisArasamuddharana.
Kalpavriksha tree (Amarkalp vriksha)
On top of Adi Shankaracharya cave (Tapasthali Sphatik Shivling Gufa) where, he attained enlightenment there is a Kalpavriksha tree (mulberry tree) which is more than 2500 years old. The Jyoteshwar Mahadeo Temple has a crystal (sphatik) Shivalingam brought by Adi Shankaracharya himself from Kailash. There is a akhanda jyothi burning all the time. The vatavruksham is an ancient tree with lofty top raising in their full green splendor towards the sky, with strong stems, gigantic boughs, that spoke of such anquity, of such long years during which they had looked down upon the valley below, where pilgrims came and went, and the things were continually changing, while it stood undisturbed and changeless. Climbing further up, one comes across the Purnagiri Mata temple and swayambu Sankatamochana Hanuman temple dedicated to Goddess Durga and Lord Hanuman respectively.
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| Adiguru Shankaracharya |
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| Akhanda Jyoti darshan |
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| Boughs of Kalpavriksha: One can see natural Ganesha, deer and other animals on these boughs |
Kalpavriksha, also known as kalpataru, kalpadruma and kalpapAdapa, is a wish fulfilling divine tree said to fulfill all desires. It originated during Samudra manthan (churning of the ocean of milk) along with the Kamadenu, the divine cow providing for all needs. The unique property of the tree is that it never loses a single leaf by itself, it is evergreen and is said to be emanating the deep-seated devotion of Shakaracharya for the Supreme Godhead Vishnu. “Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa narrates one way of gaining insight into the cosmic doctrine of karma is through the parable of the Kalpataru, the wish fulfilling tree.” This tree has an astonishing girth of 36 meters.
Lord Narasimha temple (Tiruppiridhi)
This 1200 years old Narasingh Badari temple is dedicated to Lord Narasimha. When Adi Shankaracharya worshipped Lord Narasimha here, he was bestowed with jnanam (knowledge) to write a commentary on the vedanta sutras. Lord BadriNarayan appeared in his dreams and advised him to retrieve a Saligrama shila of Him from Tapta kunda and build a temple for him. The moolavar is Paramapurusha Narasimhar and thaayar is Parimalavalli (MahaLakshmi). Teertham dedicated to this place is Ganges (Manaseega pushkarani -- Manasaras). and vahanam is Goverdhana Vimaana. Pratyaksha darshan was given to Goddess Parvati. Tirumangai Azhwar has done Mangalaasaasanam to perumal here. It is believed that perumal and the kovil as described in prabhandam should be in midst of Himalyas on the banks of Manasa Sarovaram beyond Badrinath or Gopala perumal at Nandaprayag.
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| Hathi parvat: At backdrop in the shape of elephant |
Legend is that when Lord BadriNarayanan was found by Adi Shankara, there was a voice from a Nabhi chakra which prophesied that as the Lord Narasimhar's left wrist falls down, the Nara Narayana parvat will merge into one, and current Badrinath will become inaccessible to pilgrims and shift to Bhavishya Badri. Proof of this is the real thinning of left wrist at Joshimath temple and also the Swayabhu MahaVishnu forming at Bhavishya Badri which will be clearly explained in a future post. One should really goto these places when we are young as described in Azhwars pashurams.
வாலிமாவலத் தொருவனதுடல்கெட வரிசிலை வளைவித்து அன்று
ஏலநாறுதண் தடம்பொழி லிடம்பெற இருந்தநலிமய்யத்துள்,
ஆலிமாமுகி லதிர்தர அருவரை அகடுறமுகடேறி,
பீலிமாமயில் நடஞ்செயும்தடஞ் சுனைப் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 958
கலங்கமாக் கடலரிகுலம் பணிசெய்ய அருவரையணைகட்டி,
இலங்கைமா நகர்ப்பொடிசெய்த வடிகள்தாம் இருந்தநல்லிமயத்து,
விலங்கல்போல் வனவிற லிருஞ்சினத்தன வேழங்கள்துயர்க்கூர,
பிலங்கொள் வாளெயிற்றரிய வைதிரிதரு பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 959
துடிகொள் நுண்ணிடைச்சுரிகுழல் துளங்கெயிற் றிளங்கொடிதிறத்து ஆயர்
இடிகொள் வெங்குரலின விடையடர்த்தவன் இருந்தநல்லிமயத்து,
கடிகொள் வேங்கையின்நறு மலரமளியின்மணியறை மிசைவேழம்,
பிடியினோடு வண்டிசைசொலத்துயில் கொளும் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 960
மறங்கொளாளரி யுருவெனவெருவர ஒருவனதகல்மார்வம்
திறந்து வானவர்மணி முடிபணிதர இருந்தநல்லிமயத்துள்,
இறங்கியேனங்கள் வளைமருப்பிடந்திட க்கிடந்தரு கெரிவீசும்,
பிறங்குமாமணி யருவியொடிழிதரு பிரிதிசென்றடைனெஞ்சே. -- 961
கரைசெய் மாக்கடல் கிடந்தவன் கனைகழல் அமரர்கள்தொழுதேத்த,
அரைசெய் மேகலையலர் மகளவளொடும் அமர்ந்தநல்லிமயத்து,
வரைசெய் மாக்களிறீள வெதிர்வளர்முளை அளைமிகுதேன்தோய்த்து,
பிரசவாரி தன்னிளம்பிடிக் கருள்செயும் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 962
பணங்களாயிர முடையநல்ல வரவணைப் பள்ளிகொள் பரமாவென்று,
இணங்கிவான வர்மணிமுடி பணிதர இருந்தநல்லிமயத்து,
மணங்கொள் மாதவிநெடுங் கொடிவிசும்புற நிமிர்ந்தவைமுகில்பற்றி,
பிணங்குபூம் பொழில்நுழைந்து வண்டிசை சொலும் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே! -- 963
கார்கொள் வேங்கைகள் கனவரைதழுவிய கறிவளர்க்கொடிதுன்னி,
போர்கொள் வேங்கைகள்புன வரைதழுவிய பூம்பொழிலிமயத்துள்,
ஏர்கொள் பூஞ்சுனைத் தடம்படிந் தினமலர் எட்டுமிட்டிமையோர்கள்,
பேர்களாயிரம் பரவிநின்றடி தொழும் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 964
இரவுகூர்ந் திருள்பெரு கியவரைமுழை இரும்பசியதுகூர,
அரவமா விக்குமகன் பொழில்தழுவிய அருவரையிமயத்து,
பரமனாதி யெம்பனிமுகில் வண்ணனென்று எண்ணிநின்றிமையோர்கள்,
பிரமனோடு சென்றடிதொழும் பெருந்தகைப் பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 965
ஓதியாயிர நாமங்களு ணர்ந்தவர்க்கு உறுதுயரடையாமல்,
ஏதமின்றி நின்றருளும்நம் பெருந்தகை இருந்தநல்லிமயத்து,
தாதுமல் கியபிண்டி விண்டலர்கின்ற தழல்புரையெழில்நோக்கி,
பேதைவண்டு களெரியென வெருவரு பிரிதிசென்றடைநெஞ்சே. -- 966
கரியமாமுகிற் படலங்கள்கிடந்து அவைமுழங்கிட,களிறென்று
பெரியமாசுணம் வரையெனப் பெயர்தரு பிரிதியெம்பெருமானை,
வரிகொள் வண்டறை பைம்பொழில் மங்கையர் கலியனதொலிமாலை,
அரியவின் னிசைபாடு நல்லடியவர்க்கு அருவினையடயாவே. -- 967
வண்கையான வுணர்க்குநாயகன் வேள்வியில் சென்றுமாணியாய்,
வண்கையான வுணர்க்குநாயகன் வேள்வியில் சென்றுமாணியாய்,
மண்கையா லிரந்தான் மராமரமேழு மெய்தவலத்தினான்,
எண்கையா னிமயத்துள்ளான் இருஞ்சோலை மேவியவெம்பிரான்,
திண்கைம்மா துயரதீர்த்தவன் திருவேங்கடமடைநெஞ்சமே. --1022
பேய்மு லைத்தலை நஞ்சுண்ட பிள்ளையத் தெள்ளி யார்வணங் கப்படுந் தேவனை,
மாய னைமதிள் கோவலி டைகழி மைந்த னையன்றி யந்தணர் சிந்தையுள் ஈசனை,
இலங் கும்சுடர்ச் சோதியை எந்தை யையெனக் கெய்ப்பினில் வைப்பினை
காசி னைமணி யைச்சென்று நாடிக் கண்ண மங்கையுள் கண்டுகொண் டேனே. -- 1641
Source: www.dravidaveda.org
Lord Vasudeva temple
This is one among the most sacred Vishnu shrines which is located just next to Narasimha temple. The lord is in Nindra thirukkolam with chaturbhujam. Idol of Lord Mahavishnu as Vasudev in the inner sanctrum sanctorum is carved out of a piece of black stone measuring 6 feet in height. Along with Vasudev is Sridevi, Bhoodevi, Leela devi, Oorvasi devi, Subhadra and Balram in the outer prakara. There are also idols of Vinayaka in dancing posture, Brahma, Indra, Chandra, Navadurga and Gauri Shankar.On our return we stayed at the Himalayan abode hotel in Joshimath (to be precise, a few km from the center of Joshimath on the way to Badrinath). I would highly recommend this place for staying.
Hanuman chatti
Next we went to Hanuman chatti temple. Hanuman chatti is on the road to Badrinath around 25km from Badrinath and 10km from Pandukeshwar. When the Pandavas and Draupadi were wandering in the Himalayas as part of their exile in the forest, they came across a flower of unmatched beauty and heavenly fragrance. Delighted by that flower, Draupadi asked Bheema to fetch more of its kind.
Bheema searched the forest for a long time. While he found many beautuful flowers, he could not find the one he was looking for. At last, he reached the place that is Hanuman Chatti today. An old monkey was lying across his path, blocking Bheema's way with his tail.
Bheema asked the monkey to give way, but the monkey simply said that humans are not allowed beyond this point. When Bheema further insisted, the monkey asked Bheema to move his tail aside and proceed, since he (the monkey) was too old and weak to move by himself. Bheema was unable to move the tail an inch, even after he used all his strength. He then realized that what lay before him was no ordinary monkey, and requested the being to reveal his true self.
Seeing Bheema's pride humbled, the monkey revealed himself to be Hanuman, Bheema's older brother. Realizing his mistake, Bheema prayed for forgiveness. Hanuman then blessed him and instructed him on the way to reach Kubera's gardens, where the flower Draupadi asked for could be found.
Seeing Bheema's pride humbled, the monkey revealed himself to be Hanuman, Bheema's older brother. Realizing his mistake, Bheema prayed for forgiveness. Hanuman then blessed him and instructed him on the way to reach Kubera's gardens, where the flower Draupadi asked for could be found.
Pracheen Vandurga Temple
We then proceeded towards Badrinath. On our way we stopped at a small gufa called Pracheen Vandurga temple.
Ekadashi Hemavati Gufa
As advised by priest of Joshimath, we reached Ekadashi Hemavati Gufa by 1.15pm. It is just one km away on the road to reach Badrinath before last turn. It was really blessing in disguise, that we could visit this place. Sri Mahanta swami Ramadevacharya ji Maharaj staying at this place, told us Ekadashi Mahima katha. It was great to hear to this katha at the place where Ekadashi was born and at the place where Sriman Narayana had rested. We again visited this place on the day of Ekadashi and listened to the story much more in detail. Below is the recording of the katha.
What follows is from the booklet "Ekadashi Mahima" (in Hindi) by Sri Mahanta swami Ramadevacharya ji Maharaj. Another source is the dialogue between Sri Krishna and Arjuna on this subject in the mahabharata.
In ancient times, there once lived an amazingly fearsome demon called Nadijangha. He had a son named Mura. He did great penance on Lord Shiva and got a boon that any man who comes in battle in front of him will only get defeated. With this boon he brought Indra, Vivasvan, the sun-god; the eight Vasus; Lord Brahma; Vayu, the wind-god and Agni, the fire-god under his control.
In ancient times, there once lived an amazingly fearsome demon called Nadijangha. He had a son named Mura. He did great penance on Lord Shiva and got a boon that any man who comes in battle in front of him will only get defeated. With this boon he brought Indra, Vivasvan, the sun-god; the eight Vasus; Lord Brahma; Vayu, the wind-god and Agni, the fire-god under his control.
Lord Indra then
approached Lord Shiva and said, "We have all fallen from our lokas and
are now wandering on the earth. O lord, what will be our fate and what should we do ?
Lord Shiva replied, O
best of the Suras, go to that place where Lord Vishnu, who has Garuda on his flag,
resides. He is the Jagannatha (Jagatpati) who protects all those who seek refuge in Him.
Then Lord Indra
proceeded with all the Devas to Lord Vishnu and, led by Indra,
recited the prayers: Protect us, O Mahayogin, we take refuge in you. Having been defeated by daityas we have been
separated from Swarga. We have been defeated by the
demons and have lost our positions,
O Lord of the universe, we are now wandering helplessly about the earth.
Lord MahaVishnu,
replied, What demon possesses such great powers that he has been able to defeat
all the Devas? What is his name, and where does he live? Where does he get
his strength and shelter? Tell Me everything, O Indra, without fear.
Lord Indra replied,
there was once a powerful demon of the Brahma vamsha whose name was Nadijangha.
He begot an son named Mura. Mura's capital city is Chandravati. Mura has conquered the devas and removed them from their heavenly abode. He has taken over the places of Indra, Agni, Yama, Pavana, Isha, Soma, Nivruthi, and Varuna. He has also
begun giving out light in the role of Surya and has turned himself into
the clouds as well.
The Lord became very angry and said, Indra, all together you now advance on Chandravati. Encouraged thus, the
assembled demigods proceeded to Chandravati with Lord Vishnu leading the way. Daityas
saw the devatas army. Mura, along with many daityas, attacked the devas with many divya astras. The devas began abandoning the battlefield. Seeing Lord Vishnu on the battlefield alone, the furious demons
rushed toward Him with various weapons in their hands. Lord, who was holding shankh,
chakra, gadha, and other weapons killed many demons. All the daityas started to
flee from battlefield. Mura alone kept fighting with the lord. Whatever weapon
Lord unleashed was rendered useless on Mura. To the demon the weapons felt
just like flowers striking him.
Lord began wrestling with His bare hands with Mura for
one thousand celestial years and then, apparently fatigued, left for
Badarikashrama. There Lord Yogeshvara, the greatest of all yogis, the Lord of
the universe, entered a cave named Hemavati Gufa to rest. That cave had only one entrance.
Mura the demon
followed Him into that cave and, seeing the Lord asleep, started thinking of slaying Lord Hari while he was still asleep.
While the wicked-minded Mura
was making these plans, from the Lord’s body manifested a young girl who had a very
bright complexion.
She was equipped with
various brilliant weapons along with Trishul and she had deer like eyes, lion like neck, and was ready to fight with Mura. Mura asked that young girl
to marry him. Then the young girl said one who will win over me in battle shall
marry me. Challenged by that female to do battle, Mura prepared himself and
then fought with her, but he became stunned when he saw that she fought
him without tiring. The goddess shattered all of Mura's weapons and deprived him of his chariot. He ran toward her to attack her with his
bare hands, but she angrily cut off his head. Thus the
demon at once fell to the ground and went to the abode of Yama. The rest of the
Lord's enemies, out of fear and helplessness, entered the Patala
region.
Then the Supreme Lord
woke up and saw the dead demon in front of Him, as well as the girl bowing down
to him with joined palms. His face expressing His astonishment, the Lord of the
universe said, "Who has killed this demon? He easily defeated all
the devas in triloka. It is out of his fear that I came to this cave and fell asleep. The girl said, it is I who have killed this demon after appearing from
Your body. I am Your shakti, that causes fear in all your enemies.
Lord said, I am very pleased
that you have killed this demon. You have brought happiness to all three
worlds and helped gods. Ask any boon you may desire, O Suvrate. I will give it
to you without a doubt, though it be very rare among the devas.
The girl said, "O
Lord, First boon being one who fasts on this day conquering his indriyas and stays
awake in the night, singing your glories attain Vaikunta Loka for crores of
kalpas. Second boon is that half the credit obtained by one who fasts
will accrue to one who eats only in the evening (abstaining from grains and
beans). Third boon is that one who eats only at midday will earn half of this
pious credit. Grant such devotees dharma, wealth, and at
last Moksha.
The Lord said, "Since you have
appeared on an Ekadashi, let your name be Ekadashi. You are my greatest shakti. O
most auspicious lady, what you have requested is granted. Because of you, If a person fasts on Ekadasi, I will burn up all his sins and
bestow upon him My transcendental abode.
These are the days that are most dear to Me: Tritiya, Ashthami, Navami,
Chaturdasi, and especially Ekadasi.
The merit one attains by fasting on
Ekadasi is greater than that achieved by observing any other kind of fast or by
going to a place of pilgrimage, and even greater than that achieved by giving
charity. Those who are devoted to you will become famous in the three worlds and attain Vaikuntha thereafter.
Having thus given the Ekadashi
His benediction, the Supreme Lord suddenly disappeared. From that time onward
the Ekadasi day became the most meritorious and famous all over the universe.
After visiting Hemavati gufa we proceeded towards the most awaited destination Badrinath.
Copyright 2017 by Jayashree Badarinath
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of these photos and material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to tirtha-yatra.blogspot.com with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. This blog provides general travel information only. It is not intended to solicit business
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