DEVPRAYAG -- RUDRAPRAYAG

JOURNEY FROM RISHIKESH TO SITAPUR

Day 6: Rishikesh – Vasishta gufa --- Devprayag (Holy dip in prayag, Raghunath temple) – Dhari Devi --- Rudraprayag (ancient temple of Rudranathji, Narad Shila) --- Agasthya Muni --- Gupt Kashi --- Sitapur.

Vashishta Gufa

We started at 5:30AM from Rishikesh and first visited Vashishta Gufa. This gufa is on NH58, Uttarakhand situated at a distance of 22 kms from Rishikesh. It is a 45 min drive from Rishikesh on the Rishikesh-Badrinath highway  and the gufa is on the right side of the road. It is a must watch place to visit close to Rishikesh. The cave is mentioned in Kedarkhand and is a siddha sthan. Now-a-days Shri Purushottamananda Ashram exists close to the cave. This is a beautiful and extremely peaceful place for meditation. The footpath winds to the foot of the mountains and the River Ganges.

Ganges near Vashisht Gufa

Main Entrance towards Gufa.

The cave is about 20 ft long, 10 ft wide at the entrance and slowly tapers down and its height is about 7 ft. At the farthest end there is a Shiv-ling with an oil lamp nearby. There is a pin drop silence inside. One can feel the presence of divine energy inside when one sits for meditation. I could feel the presence of Vashishta maharshi on the gaddi to the left. The spiritual bhasa or feeling I got here is unexplainable.

Shiv Ling and Vashishta gaddi

The flow of the Ganges near this cave is mindboggling and stunning. It was very cloudy in the morning. It was slightly drizzling and the sun was just then rising. The freshness in the air touched my heart and felt that this would be a nice place to sit and meditate for years. The fragrance of the mud, and of the mountain plants is amazing.

Vashishta is one of the Saptharishis and manasputra of God Brahma. He had in his possession the divine cow Nandini, daughter of Kamadhenu, who could grant anything wished for. Arundathi, the maha pativrata was his wife. He was family preceptor and Rajpurohit of the Ikshwaku dynasty in which Sri Ramachandra was born.  He was the chief author of Mandala 7 of the Rigveda and of the “Vashista Samhita” in astrology. He was the Sadguru of Lord Rama and was a peace loving, selfless, intelligent and great Rishi with 20 kala’s. He had complete knowledge of the whole cosmos and of God.

When Vishwamitra visited Vashishta's ashram  along with his army, he asked his cow Nandini to instantly produce food sufficient for the whole army. The king Kaushika (later called Vishwamitra), who visited Vashistha's ashram, was very impressed with the cow and tried to take it away from Vashistha by force. However, Nandini's spiritual power was too great for him. After being unable to conquer Nandini, Vishwamitra decided to acquire power himself through penance like Vashistha. He gained much power and many divine weapons from Lord Shiva. Once again he attempted to conquer Vasishtha. But even the divine weapons he acquired could not defeat the power of Vasistha: Vasishtha's Brahma danda alone absorbed the power of all his weapons, even the Brahmaastra. Vasishtha stood resplendent like a Kaalaagni after this.

प्राज्वलत  ब्रह्म  दण्डः  च  वसिष्ठस्य  कर उद्यतः  |
विधूम  इव  काल  अग्निः  यम  दण्ड  इव  अपरः  ||  
Srimad Valmiki Ramayana 1-56-19

The spiritual powers unleashed  in the form of Vishwamitra's astras as well as by Vasishtha's Brahma danda were unbearable for the three worlds. Extolling Vasishtha, the greatest among the great meditators, the assembled munis pleaded with him to use his powers to remove the anguish of all the worlds caused by this clash of powers. 


ततो अस्तुवन   मुनि   गणा  वसिष्ठं  जपतां  वरं  |
अमोघं  ते  बलं  ब्रह्मन्  तेजो  धारय  तेजसा  ||
निगृहीतः  त्वया ब्रह्मन्  विश्वामित्रो  महातपाः  |
प्रसीद  जपतां  श्रेष्ठ  लोकाः  सन्तु  गत  व्यथाः  || 
Srimad Valmiki Ramayana 1-56-20 & 21.

Vishwamitra then realized that the spiritual power of a Brahmarishi was far greater than the power of the mightiest Kshatriya.

एवं  उक्तो  महातेजाः  शमं  चक्रे  महातपाः  |
विश्वामित्रो  अपि  निकृतो  विनिःश्वस्य  इदं  अब्रवीत् || 
धिक्  बलं  क्षत्रिय  बलं  ब्रह्म  तेजो  बलं  बलं  |
एकेन  ब्रह्म  दण्डेन  सर्व  अस्त्राणि  हतानि  मे  || 
Srimad Valmiki Ramayana 1-56-22 & 23

Vishwamitra finally decided to become a Brahmarshi himself.  He renounced all his possessions and luxury and led the life of a simple forest ascetic. Such was the power of Vashishta Saptharishi.

Vasishta and Arundati are also a pair of stars. This is considered to symbolize marriage. In our wedding ceremonies, we are alluded to or pointed to the constellation as a symbol of the closeness marriage brings to a couple.

Arundathi Gufa

Near the Ganges, there is also Arundathi Gufa. Arundathi is identified with the morning star. She was a maha pativrata and regarded as the epitome of chastity and wifely devotion. As per the Srimad Bhagavatha purana, she is the daughter of Kardama and Devahuti. She is the grandmother of Parashara and the great grand mother of Vyasa. The Mahabharatha epic narrates how once she pleased Shiva when it did not rain for 12 years and the seven seers were suffering without roots and fruits. Her chastity and service to her husband is mentioned as unparalled. The maxim in the Sanskrit called Arundhatīdarśananyāyaḥ,  which is used to infer the unknown from that which is known is named after Arundathi.

The route from Vashishta Gufa to DevPrayag, our next destination was extremely scenic.

Devprayag

Prayag means the place where two divine rivers mingle together. Devprayag meaning “Godly confluence”. The Bhagirathi and Alakananda meet to form the holy Ganges which comes down as Aadi Ganga. This place is also called as “Tirukkandam” and “KandvennumKadinagar”. Ancient name to this place is "SudarshanaKshetra". It is one of the five sacred confluences in the hills and is an important place of pilgrimage for devout Hindus and SriVaishnavites.

DevPrayag

The Alakananda arising at the Satopanth and Bhagirath Kharak glaciers near the border with Tibet and Bhagirathi at Gaumukh at the foot at the Gangotri glacier and Khatling glacier in the Garhwal Himalaya merge together at this place. Situated at the confluence of the Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi, the town of Devaprayag lies at an elevation of 830m (2723 feet).

Raghunathji Mandir

Traditionally, it is considered to be the place where sage Devasharma led his ascetic life in Satayuga, and succeeded in having a glimpse of God giving birth to its present name, Devprayag. Lord MahaVishnu gave vardaan to DevSharma that he would reside at this place forever. Lord Rama too had given pindadaanam to King Dasharatha at this place.

ये कृतं पिण्दॎनां हि देवप्रयागके  पितृ कार्य मुनिश्रेष्टः कर्तव्यं न हि विध्यते गयायां पिण्डदानश्च यत् पुण्यं भवति द्विनः तत् पुण्यं कोटि गुणितं भवेदत्र न संशयः||

Religious ablutions take place at 2 basins excavated in the rock at the junction of the holy streams - The confluence has Brahma Kund on Bhagirathi River and Vasishta Kund on Alaknanda River. Due to heavy monsoon rains the kund was completely submerged by Ganga water. Also, we could not see the the clear color distinction between the two rivers one generally observes. The river was flowing very fast.

The Raghunath temple, with katyur architecture is enshrined with Lord Rama (also known as Purushothaman, Venimaadavar and NeelaMega perumal), whose height is 6 foot in Gaandhar style captures the attention of every visitor. The temple is built of huge stones. It stands upon a terrace in the upper part of the town and consists of an irregular pyramid capped by a white cupola with a golden ball and spire known as Mangala Vimaanam. The temple is surrounded by hills: Dasarathanchal in front, Narasimhachal to right and Giridhachal where the temple is located. It is believed both Lord SriRama and Dasharatha did penance at Devprayag. Rama and Lakshmana performed a yajna here to atone to kill Ravana, who was a Brahmin.  It is one of the 108 Divya kshetrams for Srivaishnavas to visit.

Temple

Dasharathachal Peak, contains of a rock, known as Dashrathshila, on which Raja Dasharath is said to have led a life of penance. A small stream, the Shanta running down from the Dasharathachal, is named after Shanta, the daughter of Raja Dasharath and is considered to be sacred. 

One will have to walk close to 10-15 minutes to reach the temple premises. We crossed over the bridge. Before climbing stairs to the temple, take a diversion towards the right to reach the bathing ghat.

First one will have to take a Holy dip at Devprayag. Pitru tarpanam, daanam here has very high importance. (Please note: the clothes changing place for women, near the ghat is not covered. Unless going in groups, please take permission to change dresses at one of the peoples houses before itself). There are pandas (pandits -- Brahmins) to assist with the various snana vidhi, pitru kaaryams and daana vidhi with the right sankalpa and mantras. 

It is said that the Pandavas, after the Kurukshetra war, acquired the sin of slaughtering their own kin. To get rid of this, Rishi Markandeya said that it was sufficient for them to take a holy dip at Devaprayag and other prayags among the Pancha Prayag. 

Anna daanam at this place is highly auspicious. The Raja Swethakethu had done lot of dharmic anushtans, except anna daanam (even after annadanam having been emphasized by many maharshis). After having reached higher lokas, he started feeling terrible hunger. He requested Brahma to appease his hunger. Then Brahma suggested that he go back to the earth and undergo a specific remedy (upahaaram), which did not work. Next, a muni suggested that he bathe in the prayags. This too, did not work. Finally, he met Agastya muni at Devaprayag. Agastya muni suggested that he perform Annadanam at Devaprayag. When he said that he is unable to do it because he already has a Deva sharira, Agastya muni explained that it is enough for him to have something to give, which can be used to perform that Annadanam. When he had nothing Agastya muni told him to give the fruits of all his Punyas. When Swethaketu did this, Annadanam was performed on his behalf at Devaprayag, following which his hunger was satiated and he obtained Moksham. It is said that Devaprayag is a spot where intense meditation for one Ghatika (i.e, 24 minutes) suffices to remove all sins and achieve one's objectives and even moksham. The two other Ghatikaachalams being Sholingur (Thirughatikai) and Thirukkadiththaanam (in Kerala).

Ganga maa idol

DevPrayag bathing ghat

The Banyan tree here is of very high importance. The Banyan tree is a holy tree worshipped by Hindus. It is said all Brahma, Vishnu (as Venimadhava) and Maheshwara (as Aadalangeshar) reside in this tree and hence it is considered very auspicious.  The pradakshina of this tree during sunrise is of high spiritual importance.

Banyan tree

One can buy all the pooja accessories close to bathing ghat shops (Kalkandu, dry fruits, flowers, kumkum, turmeric, udubatti (incense sticks), doop, karpoor, neela batti (this can be prepared at home and taken as well), ghee (oil at some places), turmeric (manja) kombu, adike, vettale (Beetle leaves -- this is hard to get in North India near temples). But, one will have to carry vastrams (pattu vesti (preferably yellow -- at some places white color) and pattu sarees (red color for North Indian temples and any dark colors in South India for Divyakshetrams) from shops in South India or Delhi itself, as it is hard to get it in North. Priests do karpoor Aarti, archanai and explain the sthala purana and  how He looks during Nirmalya darshanam. 

Stairs leading to temple

The Lord Raghunatha is adorned with the following color of vastram on each specific day: White (Monday and Friday), Red (Tuesday and Sunday), Green (Wednesday) and Black on Saturday.

[Courtesy:http://www.eprarthana.com]

Periyalwar has done Mangalaasasanam (praise of god) at this place. There are 10 paasurams (391-401) dedicated to this place. The pushkarani is Mangala Theertham and Ganga River. Vimaanam is Mangala Vimaanam.

                        பொங்கொலி கங்கைக் கரைமலி கண்டத்து உறைபுரு டோத்தம னடிமேல்

வெங்கலி நலியா வில்லிபுத் தூர்க்கோன் விட்டுசித் தன்விருப் புற்று

தங்கிய அன்பால் செய்தமிழ் மாலை தங்கிய நாவுடை யார்க்கு

கங்கையில் திருமால் கழலிணைக் கீழே குளித்திருந் தகணக் காமே.

"This is a mangalaasasnam by Vishnuchittar (Periyalwar), sung with deep and lasting love, for the feet of the Lord Purushottama residing in Khandam on the banks of the gushing river Ganga. 

Those who recite it will secure the same merit as bathing in the river Ganga and offering worship at the feet of the Lord Raghunatha forever. 

Periyalwar, while praising this Kshetram says that the green color of Tulasi (Bhagirathi river) on Sriman Narayana  can be seen mingling here together with the brown color of Konrai flower (Alakananda river) on lord Shiva. He says further, that Ganga brings with her flow precious stones and valuables from the Himalayas and presents them at the Divine feet of the Lord Sri Purushottama here.

Here, Pithru Tarpanam, yagnas, etc., were being performed regularly. Now also, pilgrims on their visit to Sri Badrinath, bathe and after worshiping the Lord, perform such rituals. 

Perialwar says in his pasuram that the smoke from the Yagnas' agni kunds, used to spread on both the shores of the river Ganga here. There is a witness to Lord Raghunatha here. Sri Rama after killing Ravana, came here and meditated to wash off the sin arising out of killing Ravana. As we proceed to the temple after a bath in the river, we can notice the Footprints of Sri Rama on a huge rock.

We now get into the temple, whose staircase is quite steep and high. In the temple we see Sri Purushottama. We can also see the rock seat on which Sri Rama meditated. It has a backrest also. We also see a big Vata vruksham [banyan tree]. This tree is existing for many thousands of years. This Divya desam and Sri Rama are connected and Perialwar does not forget to mention in his pasuram-- He mentions 'em dasarathi and em purushottama எம் தாசரதி, எம் புரோஷோத்தமன் '[my Dasarathi and my Purushottama]! He says, "He, Who disfigured Soorpanaka and killed her brother, is my Dasarathi" This place is surrounded by Dasharathanchal."

தங்கையை மூக்கும் தமையனைத் தலையும் தடிந்தஎம் தாச ரதிபோய்

எங்கும் தன்புக ழாவிருந்து அரசாண்ட எம்புரு டோத்தம னிருக்கை

கங்கை கங்கையென்ற வாசகத் தாலே கடுவினை களைந்திட கிற்கும்

கங்கையின் கரைமேல் கைதொழ நின்ற கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (391)

சலம்பொதி யுடம்பின் தழலுமிழ் பேழ்வாய்ச் சந்திரன் வெங்கதிர் அஞ்ச

மலர்ந்தெழுந் தணவி மணிவண்ண வுருவின் மால்புரு டோத்தமன் வாழ்வு

நலம்திகழ் சடையான் முடிக்கொன்றை மலரும் நாரணன் பாதத்து ழாயும்

கலந்திழி புனலால் புகர்படு கங்கைக் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே.  (392)

அதிர்முக முடைய வலம்புரி குமிழ்த்தி அழலுமிழ் ஆழிகொண் டெறிந்துஅங்கு

எதிர்முக வசுரர் தலைகளை யிடறும் எம்புரு டோத்தம னிருக்கை

சதுமுகன் கையில் சதுப்புயன் தாளில் சங்கரன் சடையினில் தங்கி

கதிர்முக மணிகொண் டிழிபுனல் கங்கைக் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (393)

இமையவர் இறுமாந் திருந்தர சாள ஏற்றுவந் தெதிர்பொரு சேனை

நமபுரம் நணுக நாந்தகம் விசிறும் நம்புரு டோத்தமன் நகர்தான்

இமவந்தம் தொடங்கி இருங்கடலளவும் இருகரை உலகிரைத் தாட

கமையுடைப் பெருமைக் கங்கையின் கரைமேல் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (394)

உழுவதோர் படையும் உலக்கையும் வில்லும் ஒண்சுட ராழியும் சங்கும்

மழுவொடு வாளும் படைக்கல முடைய மால்புரு டோத்தமன் வாழ்வு

எழுமையும் கூடி ஈண்டிய பாவம் இறைப்பொழு தளவினில் எல்லாம்

கழுவிடும் பெருமைக் கங்கையின் கரைமேல் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (395)

தலைப்பெய்து குமுறிச் சலம்பொதி மேகம் சலசல பொழிந்திடக் கண்டு

மலைப்பெருங் குடையால் மறைத்தவன் மதுரை மால்புரு டோத்தமன் வாழ்வு

அலைப்புடைத் திரைவாய் அருந்தவ முனிவர் அவபிர தம்குடைந் தாட

கலப்பைகள் கொழிக்கும் கங்கையின் கரைமேல் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (396)

விற்பிடித் திறுத்து வேழத்தை முருக்கி மேலிருந் தவன்தலை சாடி

மற்பொரு தெழப்பாய்ந்து அரையன யுதைத்த மால்புரு டோத்தமன் வாழ்வு

அற்புத முடையஅயி ராவத மதமும் அவரிளம் படியரொண் சாந்தும்

கற்பக மலரும் கலந்திழி கங்கைக் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (397)  

திரைபொரு கடல்சூழ் திண்மதிள் துவரை வேந்துதன் மைத்துனன் மார்க்காய்

அரசினை யவிய அரசினை யருளும் அரிபுரு டோத்தம னமர்வு

நிரைநிரை யாக நெடியன யூபம் நிரந்தரம் ஒழுக்குவிட்டு இரண்டு

கரைபுரை வேள்விப் புகைகமழ் கங்கை கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே.  (398)

வடதிசை மதுரை சாளக்கி ராமம் வைகுந்தம் துவரை அயோத்தி

இடமுடை வதரி யிடவகை யுடைய எம்புரு டோத்தம னிருக்கை

தடவரை யதிரத் தரணிவிண் டிடியத் தலைப்பற்றிக் கரைமரம் சாடி

கடலினைக் கலங்கக் கடுத்திழி கங்கைக் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (399)

மூன்றெழுத் ததனை மூன்றெழுத் ததனால் மூன்றெழுத் தாக்கிமூன் றெழுத்தை

ஏன்றுகொண் டிருப்பார்க்கு இரக்கம்நன் குடைய எம்புரு டோத்தம னிருக்கை

மூன்றடி நிமிர்த்து மூன்றினில் தோன்றி மூன்றினில் மூன்றுரு வானான்

கான்தடம் பொழில்சூழ் கங்கையின் கரைமேல் கண்டமென் னும்கடி நகரே. (400)

பொங்கொலி கங்கைக் கரைமலி கண்டத்து உறைபுரு டோத்தம னடிமேல்

வெங்கலி நலியா வில்லிபுத் தூர்க்கோன் விட்டுசித் தன்விருப் புற்று

தங்கிய அன்பால் செய்தமிழ் மாலை தங்கிய நாவுடை யார்க்கு

கங்கையில் திருமால் கழலிணைக் கீழே குளித்திருந் தகணக் காமே. (401)

Source: http://www.dravidaveda.org

Lord here is in Chaturbhujam (4 hands), Nindra tirukkolam (standing posture) and is facing his Thirumugam (face) towards the east direction. A bow and arrow of Sri Rama is kept near the vigraham. Prathyaksha darshanam was given to Bharadwaja Maharshi and Brahma. The Thayaar found in this kshetram is Pundareekavalli (Sri Vimala --- Seetha thayaar). The garbhagriham also has vigraham of Badri Narayan. The utsava murthi is Sri Rama accompanied by Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman. The utsava murthis are kept in Ram Gaddi during important festival days. Sri Adi Shankaracharya installed the idol of Raghunath.

Just outside the main sanctum on the right side there are idols of Ganesha and Bhuvaneswari. On the left side, there is an idol of Hanuman holding Sanjeevani Parvath. Opposite to Hanuman, there is a small idol of Vamana, placing His feet on Bali’s head. On the outer side of the Prakaaram, there are idols of Lord Narasimhar and Annapurna. There are shrines for Hanuman, Adi Sankaracharyar (near Ram gaddi) and Lord Shiva (as Rama was Shiva’s devotee)

Garuda

The temple timings are as follows:

Summer – 6 A.M.-- 12 noon; 5 P.M. to 9 P.M.
Winter    -- 7 A.M.– 12 noon; 4 P.M. to 8 P.M.

The place where Lord Rama did penance is in the temple premises known as “Ram Gaddi” (the place where Rama sat while doing tapas).

Ram Gaddi- tapostal of Rama

If one has more time to spend in the town of Devprayag one can choose to visit the following places at Devprayag:  Badrinath temple, Hanuman temple, Shiva temple, Kaala Bhairav and Chandrashila temple (2 km from Devprayag where King Dasharatha did penance for the salvation of his ancestors) and Danda Nagaraja temple  (Lord of snakes).  

•   Baital Kund, Baitalshila (A bath here is claimed to cure leprosy) -- 2 km from Devprayag

•   Varahishila, Varah Tirth

•   Surya Kund

•   Indradyumna Tirth

•   Pushyamal Tirth

•   Pushpavatika

Nakshatra Vedh Shala (an observatory) established by late Acharya Shri Pt. Chakradhar Joshi (a scholar in Astronomy and Astrology) exists on Dashrathanchal. The observatory is equipped with two telescopes and many books to support research in astronomy. It also contains about 3000 manuscripts from 1677 AD onwards collected from various parts of country. Apart from the latest equipment, it also has the ancient equipment like Surya Ghati, Jal Ghati and Dhruv Ghati. 

Dhaari Maata temple

This beautiful temple of Kali as Dhaari Devi (Kalyaneshwari) is situated between Rudraprayag and Srinagar on the banks of fast flowing Alaknanda River. The devi here is swayambhu (self-manifested). One will have to trek down for about 1km to reach the temple. Path to temple is very steep. The temple is situated on the top of a Simha shila (lion's rock) which has the shape of Lion's head. Devi is dressed in Bala rupa (child) in the morning, Roudra rupa (angry) in the afternoon and Vrudhdha (Old) rupa during evening hours.

Entrance of temple

Alaknanda River

Maa Dhari Devi

A new temple is getting built up because each time it rains heavily, the temple is getting flooded due to the (ongoing) Srinagar dam construction. They are planning to cut the rocks from which Devi is emerging and raise the platform of the temple premises. Beauty around the temple abounds. Interestingly, there is no bali pooja offered in this temple. Kali maata herself appeared to one of head priest and instructed Her devotees to stop sacrificing animals in Her name. Hence devotees who still believe in offering bali offer it at Bhairon gufa (1 km away along the river).

RudraPrayag

After DhaariMata temple, by afternoon we reached RudraPrayag. This prayag is the divine and holy confluence of the rivers Mandakini (emerging from Kedarnath)  and Alakananda. It is situated at a distance of 141 km from Rishikesh and 74 km from Devprayag on Rishikesh to Badari-Kedar motor road (NH58). Rudraprayag is the point where the two roads branch off to the holy Shrines of Kedarnath (86 km –NH109) & Badarinath (159 km – NH58) respectively. 

This place has lot of natural beauty with majestic Himalayas, gushing water of the sacred rivers, and a rich variety of flora and fauna. 

View of Temple and Prayag 

Confluence of two rivers

Alaknanda then proceeds towards Devaprayag where it joins with Bhagirathi River to form the river Ganges. There is a temple dedicated to Rudra, lord Shiva. The lord Shiva here is swayambhu emerged out due to penance of Narada Magarshi. To master the mysteries of music, the sage Narada worshipped Lord Shiva at the confluence of rivers, and Shiva appeared in his Rudra incarnation to bless the sage. The rock  at the confluence, where Narada muni did his penance and learnt the knowledge of music is called "Narad Shila". Devotees perform holy dip, daanam and float diyas at this place.

Narad Shila

A steep line of steps leads to the confluence point while ancient temples Rudranath and Chamunda Devi stand on the upper end of the steps. Chamunda Devi temple is situated at confluence of the holy rivers. Chamunda as wife of Lord Rudra is worshiped here. 

There is an ancient temple Rudranath temple, dedicated to Lord Rudra. Temple is at upper end of the steps from the prayag. In the prakara there is a small temple dedicated to Ganesh-Lakshmi Narayan and Bhairav. The main temple is divided into two portions; the sanctrum and the Natmandir and its crest is dome shaped adorned with lotus and trident. Natmandir in front has a pair of stone bull facing the sanctrum. The sanctrum houses two idols of Shiva – 'Naradeshwar' and 'Kameshwar'. One of them being swayambhu lingam. Two fine images of Parvati and Ganesha stand on both sides of the lingam.

Monal resort is a very good place to stay at Rudraprayag. Our initial plan of staying here got changed as we wanted to proceed further and stay at Sitapur so that we do not miss our  trip to Kedarnath due to landslides.

Agasthya Muni Ashram

Agasthya muni is the author of Agasthya Samhita. A-ga means a mountain and Asti means thrower. He was a son of Pulasthya, son of Brahma. He is the guru of all spiritual adepts who possessed ashta siddhis. He is an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, and the father of Tamil literature and compiled the first Tamil grammar called Agathiyam. Lord Shiva first taught Tamil language to Agasthiyar.

Agasthya by dent of his spiritual powers, created his wife Lopāmudrā with all the special qualities of character and personality that would be appropriate in the wife of a renunciate and transformed her to be born to king of Vidarbha. According to the Mahabharata (Vana Parva: Tirtha Yatra parva), he performed penance at Gangadwara (Haridwar), with the help of his wife, Lopamudra (the princess of Vidarbha). Agasthiyar has written many texts on medicines and Nadi astrology.

This place is one of the ashrams of Agasthya muni. It is located at a distance of 18 kms from Rudraprayag. There is a temple dedicated to Agasthya muni. A huge yagna shala with peetam can be seen today also.

There is a temple with Lord Vishnu and Shiva Ling. When I bowed in front of god putting my forehead on floor in temple, I could feel a vibration in floor. I felt that it might be due to the spiritual powers of this place.

There are very interesting legends related to Agasthya muni.  The Kalakeyas, clan of asuras, used to hide in the Ocean under water, so that it was difficult for the Devas to conquer them. The Devas then went to Sage Agastya for help. After hearing the Devas, the sage drank the entire ocean water and held it within him, until the demons were destroyed. Following this, he restored the Ocean once again.

Another legend is that two demon brothers, Ilvala and Vatapi, used to kill sages passing through the forest using a novel scheme: Vatapi would turn into a Goat, which would be  cooked and fed to a sage. After the meal, Ilvala, who knew the Sanjivini mantra, would bring Vatapi back to life. Vatapi would then come out by tearing the sage's stomach, thereby killing the sage, who would be eaten by the two brothers. A time came when they planned to kill Agastya himself in this manner. Agastya however, got to know their true intentions through his spiritual powers. When he finished the meal, he rubbed his stomach and pronounced the words "Vatapi jeerNo bhava" (may Vatapi be digested). Ilvala failed to bring Vatapi out after applying his usual mantras. Agastya then calmly informed Ilvala that Vatapi had been digested and could not be brought back to life again.

Sage Agastya is also said to have saved the earth from Mount Vindhyachal continually growing in height. To do this, Sage Agastya traveled to South India, via the Vindhyachal. When the Vindhya saw his guru Sage Agastya, he bowed with respect and reverence, upon which Sage Agastya told the Vindhyas to be bowed with respect until he returned. The Vindhyas promised to not grow until the seer's return from the South. After passing through the mountain, sage Agastya never went to the North again.

Another reference is in the Mahabharata in Sauptikaparva, as the sage gave Drona, the greatest of weapons, Brahmastra. In Srimad Bhagavatham there is a very interesting story of Agastya muni cursing King Indradyumna, who became Gajendra. Gajendra after having fought and to get away from clutches of the crocodile, surrendered to Sriman Narayana. Lord got him away from the clutches of the crocodile and awarded him the status of Swarupya Mukthi.

Pleased upon Parvati's penance, Lord Shiva agreed to marry her. The Spiritual Wedding was solemnized at Triyugi Narayana (capital of Himavat). All the Brahma, Vishnu, Devas, Bhootas, Asuras, Yakshas, Kinnaras, Gandharvas etc., came down from their respective extraterrestrial realms to Earth, to earth to witness the wedding. Due to their weight North the Earth started to Tilt. Lord Shiva then requested Agasthya Muni to rush to South India and balance the Earth from further tilting. Agasthya muni came down to a place called Chengannoor in Kerala and sat in meditation and then negated the further tilt of the planet. However, Agasthya muni had laid down a condition before leaving Kailasa that Shiva and Parvati would come down to the place where he would sit, and the marriage will be solemnized again there for his benefit to which all agreed. Finally Lord Shiva and Parvati came to Chengannoor to be married again before Agasthya muni.

GuptaKashi

Later we went to GuptaKashi (hidden Kashi), and had darshan of Viswanatha temple. Stairs from side of the road takes to temple of Viswanath. It is an ancient temple and inside as soon as one enters will find a kund – Manikarnika kund, where there is Elephant head structure from which Ganga flows and goumukh (Cow’s mouth) structure from which Yamuna flows into Kund. There is one temple dedicated to Vishwanatha and other temple being Ardhanarishwara (half Shiva and other half being goddess Parvathi on bull). The idol attracts everyone who sees it.

After the Kurukshetra war, Pandavas on the advise of god Krishna and other sages wished to atone for their sin to have killed their own kin and Brahmanahatya decided to appease Lord Shiva before attaining salvation. But Lord Shiva was not willing to meet them since he was angry with them, avoided meeting them at Kashi and went incognito as the bull -- Nandi to GuptaKashi. But Pandavas pursued him here, and recognized him in the form of Nandi. When Bhima, tried to hold the bull by its tail and hind legs, Nandi vanished from Guptakashi, into the ground, but reappeared as Shiva at five places (Pancha Kedar), hump at Kedarnath, face at Rudranath, arms at Tunganath, navel and stomach at Madhyamaheshwar and the hair and the head at Kalpeshwar. The vanishing act of Shiva gave the name Guptakashi. In the upper part of Bhagirathi River, there is another Kashi, called the Uttarkashi.

Shiva proposed to Parvati at Guptakashi (on the way to Kedarnath) before they got married at Triyugi Narayan at the confluence of Mandakini and Sone-Prayag. Bali’s son BaaNasura had his rajdhani Shonitapuri close to GupthaKashi.

Temple is built using stones with a high tower over the sanctum and a wooden frame and sloping roof. At the entrance to the temple, there are two dwarpalakas on both sides. The exterior façade is painted with lotuses. At the top of the door, there is an image of Bhairava. The bull Nandi is situated at the entrance of Ardhanareeshwara temple. This bull statue has a Swastika mark on its side, with its arms aligned in a clockwise direction. The Shiva ling from Kashi (Benaras) was shifted to GuptaKashi to save from mogul Aurangzeb's attack. The daanam done at this place is also Guptha, it is kept inside the dry coconut available near shops of temple and given to a Satpatra person.

GuptaKashi to Sitapur

The route was extremely scenic. We stayed at Sitapur in Shivalik Valley resort.

Copyright 2017 by Jayashree Badarinath

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