RISHIKESH

RISHIKESH – Abode of Lord Vishnu as Lord of the Senses.

Day 4 and 5 --- Haridwar -- Rishikesh.

Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas on the banks of the sacred Ganga River and Chandrabhaga stream, Rishikesh is a bustling temple town attracting thousands of pilgrims to its heart. It is scenically located where the Ganga River flows, and is filled with ashrams and temples. It is known as “The Gateway to the Himalayas”. It is referred as Devabhumi or Brahmabhumi, a land where gods took their abode and sadhus and sants lived and live. Rishikesh is the place where Lord Vishnu, vanquished the demon Madhu.

It is stated in the Puranas (Kedarkhand of Skanda Purana) that Lord Rama did his penance at this place, for killing Ravana who was a Brahmin by birth; the Laxman Jhula Bridge is named after Laxman, who crossed the river by jute rope at this point. The jute rope bridge was replaced by iron-rope suspension bridge in 1889, and after it was washed away in the 1924 floods, the stronger bridge currently in use replaced it.

"Hṛṣīkeśa" (हृषीकेश) is a name of Vishnu that means 'lord of the senses”. The place gets its name after Lord Vishnu appeared to ‘Raibhya Rishi’ and 'Som Sharma', as a result of their tapasya (austerities), as Lord Hrishikesha. 

Describing how Kubjaamrak teerth derived it's name, Lord Varaha told Prithvi in Varaha purana (Adhyaya - 126) as follows: "In Satyayuga, at the time when the earth was still submerged in water, I had killed two mighty demons named Madhu and Kaitabh and had saved Brahma. 

After killing both the demons I looked all around and found sage Raibhya engrossed in his penance. Sage Raibhya was a great devotee of mine and was doing Tapasya for over 10000 years. I was extremely impressed and watched him hiding myself behind a mango tree. The mango tree could not bear the weight of my hands and became curved. This is how Kubjaamrak teerth (Kubja -- means hunched and aamrak -- means mango tree) derived it's name.

Very soon, sage Raibhya found out that I was giving darshan in the form of mango tree. He eulogized me and requested me to grant a special status to Kubjaamrak teerth among all the holy places. I blessed him and thus Kubjaamrak teerth became one of the holiest places."

There are several other holy places situated in the vicinity of Kubjaamrak teerth: Manas-teerth, Maya-teerth, Sarvakaamika-teerth, Purnamukh teerth, Karaveer-teerth, Pundareeka-Teerth, Agni-teerth, Vaayavya teerth, Shakra-terth, Manasarteerth, Sapta samudrak-teerth,etc. The details of all these teerthas, how to identify them, what is the phalam of taking holy dip in them and when is the auspicious day to take holy dip is detailed in the Varaha Purana. All these holy places including Kubjaamrak teerth are capable of giving salvation. The holy Kubjaamrak teerth is in the shape of Kumudhapushpaki. One who has holy dip here will attain SwargaLoka.  One who does hard dharma anustaan, in the months of Kaarthik, Agahan or Vaishakha at Rishikesh will attain Vishnu Loka.

Since Raibhya had to conquer his senses in order to realize Vishnu, Lord Vishnu appeared as Hrishikesh.  “Hrishik” means senses and “Ish” means king. During Kaliyuga, Lord Vishnu's incarnation is known by the name of Bharat. Who ever will live in Hrishikesh observing all religious disciplines and will visit Bharatji's temple after a holy bath in the sacred Mayakund, will be freed from all wordly bondages.  

There were many “Rishi’s”, meaning "seer," living in caves in the surrounding hills. Another legend for this place describes that fierce fire broke out here. Lord Shiva was angry with Lord Agni and cursed him. Then Lord Agni prayed here for the expiation of his sins. Hence it is also known as Agni Teerth – the holy place of penance of Lord Agni or the Fire God. The water in this teerth has ushna (Hot) nature in Hemantha ruthu and sheetal (cold) nature in Greeshma ruthu.

Today, Rishikesh is known as the "the world capital of yoga." Meditation in Rishikesh brings one closer to attainment of Moksha. Rishikesh is also becoming a popular spot for Ganga River white water rafting, rappelling, rock climbing, kayaking and bungee jumping. There are a lot of soft treks in this region. Many tourists trek to Neelkant MahaDev temple in  the midst of nature watching beautiful birds and some prefer to be at the camp and relax.

Pracheen SatyaNarayan Temple.

We checked out from Hotel Godwin in Haridwar and started to move towards Rishikesh. Even on the road from Haridwar to Rishikesh one can find lot of temples. We first visited a 500 year old ancient temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lakshmi as SatyaNarayana. There is an old Rudraksha tree, (the seeds of which are traditionally used for making prayer beads) in the temple premises.

Kunja Puri

It is located at a distance of 29 km from Rishikesh. One can get a view the peaks of Garhwal Himalayas including Chaukamba, Swarga Rohini, Banderpoonch and Gangotri. This is a siddha peeta dedicated to Sati. It offers a panaromic view of Himalayan peaks to the North and Rishikesh, Haridwar and Doon valley to the south. It is considered one among the 52 Shaktipeetas. This is the place where Divine Mother's breast had fallen. She is also known as Kucha Devi. Priest narrated the sthala purana, and it was our fortune we could worship the goddess at this place in peace for a long time.

Stair entrance

View as we climbed up

Temple entrance

Place where Mother's breast fell

Main kund

One can witness excellent mountain views and this place is famous for sunrise and sunset on the Greater Himalayan peaks and the vast Indo Gangetic plains. One will have to buy pooja samagris, mata ki chunri and sindoor items down itself near parking place and climb around 80 stairs. Beware of monkeys here. When we went the path through stairs were broken due to heavy rains and we had to do some climbing. While coming back we got down from the mountain side. 

While climbing one can read shlokas from the Durga Shaptasati which is written on the shelter covering the stairs. There is a sacred tree to which devotees tie threads and chunris seeking desires. Once the wishes are fulfilled they make a visit again.

Triveni Ghat

In Rishikesh, we first visited Muni-ki-Reti or the “sands of the sages” at Triveni ghat (bathing ghat) and had our holy dip at River Ganges. Traditionally, the sandy (reti) banks of Ganges River have been used by munis (sages) and sadhus for tapasya, giving the place it's name Muni ki Reti. The Ganga and Saraswati are already together flowing down from Mana. Near the banks of the Ganga in Rishikesh there is Rishi-kund which has water from Yamuna and hence this place is called Triveni-ghat.

Muni-ki-Reti

We then did Aarti to Maa Ganga and floated diyas. There was a holy sage sitting under the tree and reading Ramayana aloud which made the whole atmosphere divine and serene. On the ghats, there is temple dedicated to “Triveni – Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati”. The picturesque locale of the place, surrounded with mountains is indeed a visual feast. Maha Aarti is performed in the evening at Triveni Ghat. It was very soothing to sit on the banks of the river and enjoy the cool breeze from the river and listen to the Ramayana

Triveni Mata Mandir

There is a huge statue of Gitopadesh from Krishna to Arjuna as well as a Maa Ganga idol. 

On to the left of the ghat is Machli kund, where one can find many fish. 

Machli Kund

On coming out, there is the Raghunath Mandir with the ancient Rishi kund, which is of high importance for pinda daanam, snan and daan. The temple has Sita Rama statues and also Lakshmi Narayana. In the prakara one can find Nava Durga’s also. The past evidences relate this place to Kubj Rishi, who was blessed by the Goddess Yamuna, by saturating this pond by her waters. 

Rishi Kund

Sita-Ram -- Raghunatha Mandir

Lakshmi Narayana

Shiva Lingam

Nava Durga

Rama Charana paduka

Temples around Lakshman Jhoola

Then we started visiting all temples around Lakshman Jhoola. It takes around one hour to cover all the temples around this area. First we went to Radha Krishna temple. 

Radha Krishna Mandir

It is also called as Ananda dham. Main idol is Radha Krishna, at entrance one finds big idol of Bhajrang bali and on the walls of entrance 4 statues of Ganga, Yamuna, Shiva and Vishnu for char dhams (Gangotri, Yamunotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath). Apart from main idol, there are idols of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, Vivekananda, Ganesha, Durga, MahaVishnu, Lakshmi, Brahma, Saraswathi, Rama-Sita and many more. This temple is situated on the way to Lakshman Jhoola. From here we passed through bazaar road where one can buy lot of pooja related items. There are authenticated shops selling Spatika malas (One can identify pure spatika’s in darkness. If one bead is rubbed against other, it produces spark).

Bhajrang Bali (Hanuman)

Radha Krishna

Lakshman Mandir

From here we went to Lakshman temple: To atone for the Brahma hatya dosham of Killing Indrajit during the war, Lakshmana did penance at this place. Hence, this temple is dedicated to him and Lakshmana jhoola is named after him. The main idol of Lakshmana is unique: He is in the form of   Adhisesha. We met a few piligrims who had just then completed Badri Yatra. Rishikesh was their final destination. They blessed us that we would have a successful yatra and gave us abhisheka tirtha of Badrinath mahaabhishekam. That boosted our spirits after  having missed the visit to Yamunotri and Gangotri dhams.

Entrance of temple

Lakshmana 

Shri Lakshmi Narada sametha Badri Nath ji

Saccha Akhileshwar Mahadev temple

From Lakshmana Jhoola temple, we went to Saccha Akhileshwar Mahadev temple: This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva built by Sage Sacha. The lingam is gigantic and is 11ft 11inch tall and its breadth is 6 feet. Around the lingam there are various idols of Sita-Rama, Radha-Krishna, Shiva-Parvati, Durga, Vinayaka and Karthikeya.

Mahadev temple.

Lakshman Jhoola

From here we went over Lakshman Jhoola Bridge. Lakshman jhoola is a suspended bridge. This part of town is better known for its busy shops, restaurants and cafes. The winds were blowing very fast as we were walking on the bridge.  Even small motor vehicles are also allowed on this bridge which makes it hard for pedestrians to manage when strong winds blow. Swarga Ashram can be found on east banks. After crossing the bridge it started raining very heavily. We entered Coffee day and had a nice cup of coffee. When it stopped raining we took a jeep and went to Paramarth Niketan for the evening Aarti.

Lakshman Jhoola

Ashram 

View from Lakshman Jhoola 

Shiva idol at other end of Lakshman Jhoola

Evening Aarthi at Paramarth

We floated diyas and did Aarti to Ganga maata. The evening Aarti at 7pm at Parmarth Niketan Ashram is mesmerizing. I stood at the tip of Ganga, where my feet were inside the River. The Shiva statue with backdrop of mountains and Ganga River is amazing. The Sun started to set. Here, the Ganga Aarti is more detailed. They first start with bhajans. 

Sunset at Paramarth

The atmosphere was truly enchanting and spiritual. There was not as much of a crowd as in Haridwar, so I could concentrate on the Aarti much more. Words fail to express the vibration of bhajans and the Aarti song, along with the ringing bells of the temple. Innumerable diyas were floating on River Ganga, which was lighting up the whole place. It touched my inner soul and mind. It was something I wont forget in my lifetime. I felt one with the surroundings, which energized my spirits.

We walked over Ram Jhoola after seeing Paramarth Ashram. Ram Jhoola is another suspension bridge connecting the areas of Shivanand Ashram on the east bank and Swargashram on the west. There are lots of shops around Ram jhoola. One can buy good kurthas, japa malas, ayurvedic things, idols, CD’s etc etc. One can see lot of cows and worship them here on Ganga bank. 

We stayed at Ganga Beach resort for 2 days in Rishikesh. It is situated at Tapovan 3 kms from Rishikesh. It offers the view of Ganga swiftly flowing along. It is surrounded by forested hills. Ganga Kinare is also a good hotel to stay at and has beautiful views of Ganga river with backdrop of mountains and a private ghat (bank).

Day 2 at Rishikesh: Neelkanth Mahadev temple

Next day morning we started to Neelkanth Mahadev temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is situated at a height of 1330 meters and is located about 32 kms from Rishikesh in the Pauri Garhwal district of Uttarakhand. It is surrounded by dense forests. It is enveloped between valleys of Manikoot, Brahmakoot and Vishnukoot and is located at the confluence of the rivers Pankaja and Madhumati.

This is the sacred place where, Lord Shiva consumed the poison Halahala that originated from the samudra manthana when Devas and Asuras churned the ocean in order to obtain Amrita. This poison that emanated during the Samudramanthan made his throat blue in color and thus Lord Shiva is called Neelkanth.

Gopuram of temple.

The gopuram of the temple is adorned with sculptures of various Devas and Asuras depecting this story. Neelkanth Mahadev in the form of Shivalinga is the presiding deity of the temple. The temple complex also has a natural spring where devotees take a holy bath before entering the temple. There is a trekkable road (approx 4 hrs) to the temple surrounded by dense forests. One buys various pooja samagris along with ganga jal and havan samagris. The havan samagris are added to havan which has a akhand agni. Bhasma from this havan is given as prasad.

A life-sized idol of goddess Parvati is seated near the entrance. The arena around the lingam is made of marble. Devotees offer Ganga jal, Pushpam and bilva patram to Linga. Opposite to the lingam there is a nandi, the bull. The lingam is encased in silver and it has an opening at the top to see the original form.  

There is a gigantic peepal tree at the entrance of the sanctum. Devotees offer Ganga jal to the tree and worship. Many even tie up chunaries at the tree for the desires to be fulfilled. People visit Neelkanth Mahadev temple to seek Moksha and solitude and inner peace of mind.

On the way back we stopped at Kali Gufa. There is a Shiva linga inside this cave. It is a little slippery to enter the cave which is behind a waterfall.

Kali Gufa

Further down, at Garuda chatti, there is a Garuda temple. It is called as first (pratham) chatti (stopover) of the Badri, Kedar, Gangotri and Yamunotri yatra. Yatris start their char dham yatra from Haridwar and Rishikesh. That is the reason that this is considered as the pratham chatti of the yatra.

Garuda Bhagvan 

Hanuman

Shivling at Garuda chatti 

Garuda chatti is near this bridge

As we proceed towards Rishikesh back one can get beautiful views of Ganga in backdrop of mountains.

Veerabadra Mahadev Mandir

Veerabhadra was a super being created by the wrath of Rudra (Shiva), when he stepped into destroy the yagna of Daksha, after Sati - consort of Shiva, self-immolated in yagna fire. This is a shiva temple dedicated to Veerabadra.

Pracheen Bharat Mandir.

Then we went to Pracheen Bharat Mandir. This is the main temple of Hrishikesh (Adhistatri bhagavan). It is about ½ km from Triveni Ghat. The main deity is carved out of one piece Saligram. The inner canopy above the statue has Shree Yatra, which is installed by Adiguru Shankacharya. Behind this temple, there is pracheen Kali mandir. Every year, on the day of Basant Panchami, the Saligram is taken out, in a holy procession, for a dip in the sacred water of river Ganga. Followers from far off places come to Rishikesh for participating in this procession.

There is a museum associated with the temple with a lot of sculptures, clay containers etc which were excavated.

ISCKON Temple, Rishikesh.

From here we went to the ISCKON temple at Rishikesh. It is a very beautiful temple. Bhajans were going on when we went to this temple. We also brought genuine Tulsi maala from the store.

Shatrugna temple

After this we again went for evening aarti at Paramarth followed by Radha Krishna temple and pracheen Shatrugna temple. With this our day at Rishikesh concluded.

Shatrugna Mandir

Beyond Rishikesh

Bhagavata MahaPurana mentions that the sthula rupa of the Lord, or the manifest portion of Purusha, is identified with the entire visible world. Mountains are the bones of his body, the oceans are his abdominal cavity, the trees are the hairs on his body, and the rivers are his veins and arteries. Water is the very basis of all life. Water is worshipped as the Universal Mother, since “water symbolizes the primal substance from which all forms of life come and to which they will return. She has the power to bestow the life force, health and energy,”

The Ganga starting from Gaumukh in Himalayas, encounters many obstacles on her way, until she reaches the ocean. Similarly, the bhaktha should never give up their struggle, however insurmountable the obstacles in the path may appear to be. All difficulties and obstacles will be removed through the grace of Sriman Narayana if he is sincere in his bhakthi, and he will reach the goal. 

The Divine Ganga gives always cool, pure water. It does not expect anything from anyone in return. We need to learn silent lessons from her. Always give, ask for nothing in return. Expect nothing in return. Do not expect even appreciation, approbation, or recognition. We should develop a vision like the Ganga. One should see god in everyone and treat everyone equally.

We should all follow the path of Mother Ganga. Be pure. Be adaptable. Be tolerant. Be forgiving. Be sweet. Pour out our love on all. Share what we have—moral, mental and spiritual—with the whole of humanity. Give without any selfish motive, without expecting any reward. Embrace all. 

Let glory be to Mother Ganga, the giver of life, light and love. Worship Her with faith, devotion and piety. Take a holy dip in her. Adore Her with flowers of purity, love, self-restraint and equal vision. Sing Her Names and do her aarthi with bhakthi. Attain Brahman through Her grace. Let Mother Ganga bless us all! With these prayers let us begin our virtual tour to Kedarnath, Pancha Prayags, Saptha Badri's and Braj bhoomi

Copyright 2017 by Jayashree Badarinath

Unauthorized use and/or duplication of these photos and material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to tirtha-yatra.blogspot.com with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. This blog provides general travel information only. It is not intended to solicit business